This flower-scented little city/island is a haven for famous writers, former hippies, struggling artists, sun seekers, and tourists from all over the world. They like the relaxed pace, the storybook architecture, the carnival-like street life, and they are drawn to Mallory Square every evening to applaud the sunset. The island, just 2 miles wide by 4 miles long, is one of about a thousand coral islets in an archipelago that stretches 126 miles southward from Miami.